We were perplexed when we learned of the new Zenith Chronomaster Original with black tricolor dial last month. How is a black tricolor executed? Clearly, we were jetlagged because the answer is readily apparent in the image…once you stop considering the El Primero-powered chronograph subdials. That would have been the end of it if we hadn’t considered the last time we covered this particular Chronomaster variant, given our preference for the Open and Sports models. As it turns out, we have never mentioned the Original (at least in a standalone post), so this story rectifies that oversight.
In the tumultuous days of 2021, Zenith delivered the first 38mm Chronomaster Original, which was a major deal because it was the first modern revival of the 1969 A386 model that was neither limited edition, precious metal, nor exclusive to the manufacturer. In essence, the 2021 Chronomaster Original in steel was the most accessible iteration of the original look of the Zenith El Primero chronograph, which revolutionized watchmaking in 1969; the new black dial version continues this tradition. For the Zenith Chronomaster Original, there are now panda and reverse panda options available. To clarify, the Chronomaster Original is available in panda and reverse panda configurations, but not in a tricolor configuration. The tricolor refers to the grey, black, and blue chronograph subdials, which are nearly identical to those used by Zenith in 1969.
According to our knowledge, there has never been an A386 tricolor with a black dial, making this a first for the Chronomaster Original collection. If, like us, you believe this watch already exists, then you are thinking of the Zenith Chronomaster Open, which is available in a black tricolor variant. Nonetheless, the 38mm size is ideal for this chronograph, as we recently discovered at the brand’s presentation of a number of innovations and variants. Maybe it’s the pump-style pushers (which don’t work as well on the larger case) or the fact that the proportions of the automatic El Primero 3600 (1/10th of a second chronograph with column wheel and horizontal clutch, with an unusual coupling mechanism for the escape wheel) work best in a 38mm case, but the Chronomaster Original is superior. Well, clumsily phrased facts aside, this is a matter of opinion and wrist circumference. The calfskin versions of the Original propositions cost $14,000 US, which is a positive aspect to consider.
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